How to line the inside of your forge.
In this article I will cover how to reline your forge so that you don't have kaowool fibers floating around (you really don't want to breath those in at all) and you'll be able to retain heat better. Whether you are just starting out or have been forging for awhile you will need to make sure that your forge is well lined for your safety as well as to keep your forge in optimal working order. Gas aint cheap and your lungs aren't indestructible. Yes I'm talk to you folks in your early 20's that are bulletproof.
I am using Green Patch 421 that I bought from Iron Dungeon Forge for this but you may be working with some other popular forge liners like satanite, Hellcoat or a myriad of any other refractory cements.
For the application you can use a small cheap paint brush or even a gloved hand. It ultimately doesn't matter what you use to apply the refractory lining but you will want to make sure that you have complete coverage of the kaowool insulated lining. For this application I used a very expensive brush <sarcasm> as you can tell from its description.
100% Pure Bristle (Maybe I find this a lot funnier than I should.)
- a short stiff hair, typically one of those on an animal's skin, a man's face, or a plant.
Anyway I digress. Some refractory lining comes premixed and others you will need to mix yourself. If a lining is premixed and is fairly thick you can use water to thin it out. For most refractory linings that I have worked with I have found that a little thicker than pancake batter like consistency works best. In the image below I had just added the water but didn't think about taking a second image after I had mixed it up. Make sure that the refractory doesn't have a lumpy consistency as that will translate into your forge lining.